uncommon to have drifting snow accumulating against houses during a storm one day, and the
brightest sunny day the next. The sun will heat the exterior CEB wall, melting the snow and
exposing the CEBs to significant surface moisture, with some of this water being absorbed by the
block. At night, colder temperatures may cause this water to freeze and expand, causing typically
minor, but notable issues. Repetitive cycles of this scenario are cause for concern and will
necessitate a design solution. Obviously, the lower courses are more vulnerable to this scenario.
Generally, using CMU for the first vertical foot is adequate protection. Although stabilized CEB
walls can withstand nominal moisture exposure, plastering the walls with a coating or two of
similar material is advisable. One can easily make any subsequent repairs, as the mix is available
locally. For higher moisture climates, a three-coat cementitious plaster layer affords more than
adequate protection from the elements.
CEBs are, by design, dense and hard to penetrate with standard construction tools, unlike the
more common wood frame hollow-wall houses. Therefore, integrate the foundation plan with the
electrical, plumbing, and mechanical detail so that, if desired, service supply lines can be brought
into the house under or through the foundation and floor. If pouring a slab, setting the interior
stubs with precision beforehand will save a small fortune in expense and anxiety if relocating is
otherwise required.
Building Up the Walls
After the foundation has been completed, layout for doors and windows, and block walls can
begin. Proper procedure requires that the foundation be checked for square first. A square or
rectangular foundation can be verified as true by simply measuring the diagonal length from
opposing corners. For foundations with more than four straight sides, use the longest 3, 4, 5 right
triangle multiplier possible.
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From each square foundation corner measure 3 feet along the edge
and make a mark. From the same starting point, measure 4 feet along the other axis and mark the
foundation edge again. Now, carefully measure the diagonal distance between those two marks.
Any length other than exactly 5 feet means the foundation is out of square and you will need to
adjust the alignment of your blocks in reference to the foundation line to compensate. Use a
multiple of the 3, 4, 5 triangle for longer walls. For example, try 6, 8, 10 or 9, 12, 15, if the space
exists. If adjustments are needed, choose a single reference point that is easily observed and
accessed and pull all measurements from that location. Where possible, snap chalk lines to
indicate the first course layout location. Consult with the project architect or engineer for ways to
compensate for out-of-square issues before laying block.
Marking the location of exterior doors on the foundation is the next step. Door and window
openings are framed with “bucks” that act as a form for the rough opening (RO) of blocks
(figure 10). Install door bucks before laying your blocks. Bucks can be made of welded steel that
will provide a sturdy reusable frame. Wooden bucks perform equally well as the steel for shorter
term and one-time use or they can be left in place to serve as nailing points for door or window
frames and trim. Determine the intent to either leave the bucks or remove them before sizing the
RO for your doors and windows. The bucks will need to be diagonally braced to keep them square
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The method is based on Pythagoras’ geometric theorem that the square of the length of the hypotenuse of a right
triangle is equal to the sum of the squares of the lengths of the other two sides. In equation form: 3
2
+ 4
2
= 5
2
, or 9 +
16 = 25. It is true for the multiples of the two sides that make up the right angle also. 6
2
+ 8
2
= 10
2
, or 36 + 64 = 100.